What a crazy day
A route of 30 hard movements in a big overhang
A succession of 4 bouldery sections
Quite difficult to grade a bouldery section with a harness but I will try: 8A/A+ (no rest) 7C+ (very bad rest) 8A hard (no rest) and 7B
It took me about ten sessions to get there but I already knew the first part, which is the same for a 9A+ I did in 2019, which had already taken me about fifteen tries.
Among all these sessions, I encountered some obstacles:
The first was to find a solution to dry 2 wet holds at the route bottom. During my tries, my belayer had to go up and dry them, and come down. Then I equipped myself but when I climbed they were still wet.
The solution to this problem was to fully prepare myself before my belayer went up. A little painful for the one who has to go up at each try..
The second obstacle was the pressure.
During one session I really felt that I was quite close to succeed so I was very motivated then the next session I felt much less able to achieve it.
Weekend of April 15/16 and Monday 17, the weather announces a lot of wind for these 3 days and then nothing. It looks good…
First try everything goes well, I arrived in the final 8A bouldery section feeling pretty good, then I fell on the last movement of the section. I waited 1 hour and I give a second try. I fell again at the same movement. Big disappointment because I really believed in it.