Career Highlights

  • Onsighting “It’s a Good Life” 5.12.b

  • First AU3 climber to climb v11 by sending “Jaws.”

  • Two time USA National Champion

  • Two time world cup gold medalist

Favorite places to live / climb / visit:

My favorite place to live is St. George, Utah. There are more than 4 different rock types within 30 minutes and endless amounts of climbing. My favorite place to climb is in Fontainbleau, France. I love the proximity of all the boulders, how nice the sandstone is on the hands, and how there are so many distinct styles the rock demands. South Korea has been my favorite place to visit with how kind everyone is, how nice and universal the transit system is, and with how delicious the food is.

What most people don’t know about me:

I love chess and most other board games.

    Interview

    • Climbing

       When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

      I started climbing during COVID. Since there was not much to do other than stay inside or go to the woods, me and my older brother chose the latter. The first thing that got me hooked in climbing was the fear, however trying hard is what motivates me to this day.

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      As a child I always looked up to my father. He was hard working, slow to anger and did everything he could to support our family of five. I would like to think that I live a life that others would want to follow my path. I think that if I one day am the one to inspire the next generation I want to try my hardest now to push the barrier of what is possible as far as I can.

      What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

      I would say that my most important milestone was getting married to my wonderful wife. I knew that day was going to be a big one but I wish I had more time to take it all in. I think that my most important climbing milestone was when I climbed v11 making me the first AU3 Para-climber to climb this grade. I thought beforehand that it would be important, although a new grade is always a big head liner. I think it is also the last full French number grade that AU3 will probably break.

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      My greatest set back came in the form of a work place accident. I was working as a well driller's Assistant when a steel pipe became dislodged from a wench line. The pipe ended up landing on my dominant hand and forced me to have to get four fingers amputated. I did not let this stop me, however it gave me a new found determination not just to get back to climbing, but to improve as much as I could. I started climbing very soon after only using one hand and eventually kept getting stronger. This mind set shift allowed me to push past many grades and barriers. In spite of my injury I was able to go from a v6 climber to now sending a v11.

      What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?

      Although I have many fond memories while climbing I think one of my favorites was when my brother and I first started. We checked out a local 5.11.a and thought that it looked impossible. After my accident I came back to it 2 years later and it felt so easy it was laughable. Although it is no where near my hardest assent the amount of gratitude I felt was immense, from seeing where I started to where I have come.

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      I have a pretty robust training plan, however I do always base my sessions on how I am feeling, making sure I don't injure myself by pushing too hard.

      What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

      If you are new, I always suggest to climb as much as you possibly can on as much varied terrain and styles. As for more intermediate to advanced climbers spray walls and standardized boards are one of the best tools to implement into your week.

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      I think that a lot of people want them to be the same or treat them as the same. I personally think that they are nearly two different sports, although they do have a correlation where if you get better at one you usually improve in the other.

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      I am able to do a 1 one arm pull up on my right arm.

      How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

      I think a lot of it is actual skill. Many pro climbers that I have met are absolute beasts.

    • Climbing (Psychology)

      Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

      I have a strong stance that not everyone can, not everyone is blessed with a perfectly functional body or good genetics. However I try to tell myself if something seems impossible that if I don't try or think that it is possible, there is a zero percent chance that it will happen. If you do try and believe in yourself it is not guaranteed, though there is a chance even if it is slim.

      How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

      Setting goals both long term and short term are fantastic. It both gives you something to strive for and something to train towards. My goal this year is to complete an 8a boulder and an 8a sport climb. My long term goal when it comes to climbing is to bring accessibility to the sport and turn as many people that are psyched into it as possible.

      How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      Extremely hard problems fall into categories for me. Impossible due to my disability or possible with time and maybe more strength. I can both find them frustrating and almost therapeutic at times. Trying something at your limit is what climbing is all about, the persistence of goals that seem or feel not possible.

    • Future of rock climbing

      Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

      If I had one thing that I would change about climbing, it would be single discipline climbers mind sets. I think there is immense value in trying and doing all forms of climbing. I think people often limit themselves to one form of climbing, whether they are just too psyched on one or if they look down on other types. The more variation in your clmbing the more well rounded you become, and the better you get at your favorite discipline/style.

      Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

      In the close future I see climbing expanding and continuing to grow. From the first Paralympic inclusion to growing grass roots interest. My goal is to make sure to harbor a good community and push my own limits to hopefully inspire others to do the same.