Career Highlights

  • Nanga Parbat 8126 m First ascent of the Rakhiot Wall (3000 m 4/5 gr. M 3/4 70 degrees)

  • Chongra North 6800 m and Chongra South 6430 m climbed via new lines

  • Mt. Genyen 6240 m in Sichuan first ascent via the north face (1200m-4° M3/M4 70°)

  • Sochung 5830m in Sichuan (300m 7° A3) Abort approx. 50 meters from the summit due to departure

  • Ritacuba Blanco 5350 m Columbia (800m to 7a+) Columbia

  • Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter speed ascent (Comici, Cassin, Gelbe Kante in 7.5 pure climbing time)

  • Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter ascent of the tour Phantom of the Peaks (450 m to 7c)

  • And I was able to open about 50 alpine first ascents between 5a - 8a with different friends: (Dolomites, Norway, Algeria, Columbia, Pakistan, Sichuan...)

    Interview

    • Climbing

      When and how did you get into climbing? What keeps you interested? What fascinates you?

      At the age of 6, then unfortunately there was a big interruption as my father died in an avalanche. It wasn't until I was 14 that I realized I had somehow inherited it in my blood and since then this passion has not let up.

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      My hero was my father, who was also a mountain guide. I devoured his climbing photos and wanted to be as good as him one day.

      I somehow think that as a mountain guide/ mountaineer you serve as a role model, especially for young people in the valley and the surrounding area. That's why I try to praise, motivate and encourage young people, while always remaining fair.

      What have been the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? And did you recognize them immediately as such or only later on?

      When I gave up my job as a carpenter at the age of 25 and embarked on the mountain guide adventure. After 11 years tied to a fixed job, suddenly I had so much freedom and opportunities to enjoy nature and the mountains.

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      You also have to deal with failures, accidents and setbacks somehow, which is no easy matter. I think being optimistic, living in a humorous circle of friends, enjoying your work and having a great family will help you a lot.

      What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?

      You could almost write a book about it, so many great experiences have accumulated over the years.

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      No, I don't have a training plan, never have, and now my family and work as a mountain guide take up every spare minute. It's not easy to juggle all of this.

      What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

      It is very important that you start slowly and enjoy it. And one of the most important things is to take breaks, even though you may be totally motivated and everything around you is just right.

       

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      I'm really glad that we have a great gym near here, because as a mountain guide you can make good use of the bad weather days. Rock is of course a different league, but training in the hall is a lot of fun, especially if you can go at least twice a week.

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      I did a lot of pull-ups in my youth, without plan and system. The strength has somehow remained and it still works, even without specific training.

    • Psychology

      Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

      In my opinion, anyone can do it, but of course you have to train specifically for this ascent.

      How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

      I don't have many goals. I'm very spontaneous and just try to keep my level high enough to still have a lot of fun climbing and mountaineering. Of course I also carry some dreams around with me, but they will only be revealed when they realized...

      How do you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      Actually, I'm not put off by a difficult climb, but I can't get on a tour countless times either. Onsight climbing motivates me, perhaps also because my free time is too short and this time has to be invested in new things.

    • Future of climbing

      Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

      Everyone talks about trad climbing, but on the rock, especially in the Dolomites where you can do it well, you find very few of these people. Only in granite, where you can secure everything perfectly with bombproof friends...