Career Highlights

  • Podiums world cup from 2011 to 2016
  • 8B+ boulder in fontainebleau « Mécanique élémentaire »
  • 8C/+ Sport : « golden ticket » Red river gorges ; « Wall street » frankenjura ; « bah bah black sheep « Céüse »
  • 8B+ multi pitch FA « Action direct » Météora

    Interview

    • Climbing

      When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport

      I started when I was 15 after trying all kind of sports. What got me into climbing straight away was the self expression, personal challenges which also makes me grow up as a person. It was also addicting because I had talent and abilities for this sport (lots of explosive power for a tiny girl). I just felt in the right place with this nice community, being a shy teen, not feeling comfortable in society.

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      Climbing in Bordeaux and climbing history were not very deeply rooted. So I never had a climbing hero, even if I now have great respect for the actors of climbing history! I had just the hunger to get better and play around ! I admit I was totally hyper active. Nowadays, I don't like to consider myself as a role model but I would like to inspire people to work hard for whatever motivates them ! Sure it influences me that people look up to me, but I try to follow my psyche for climbing.

      What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

      In everyday life, having the freedom to shape my daily routine around climbing. This is something I'm seeking for now and in the future, building my abilities that last in a way that I'm satisfied with. I didn't recognize it straight away, I learnt it by becoming a professional climber and realizing I want to create my own way.

      In climbing, for sure competitions taught me so much ! Handling my hyper sensibility was the first point, reveling myself and being able to share it on stage with thousand of eyes on me ! Then getting addicted to this energy ! Rock climbing taught me the inner calm and the deeper contact with nature, seeking for proud lines :) But also patience for solving complex movements ! The tougher it is, the more I am !

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      Ouch, I had so many injuries during the competitions.... mainly psychosomatic. When I didn't feel comfortable with what I was doing or with the relationships I was in. Competitions take so much out of you and the stress during events is super high (at least for me) that sometimes you go too far, especially when you're fighting for what you believe in.... My love and addiction to climbing has always brought me back! Patience is key when you're injured (sometimes you're not able to play sports), and you have to focus on what you can do in the moment to have a better time! You should always take the recovery easy and have a good medical team to support you!

      What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?

      Probably traveling to Africa, in Malawi or Madagascar, discovering different concepts of living free from occidental time convention and where people are generally happy even if their life's conditions are very poor. Also simply being able to challenge myself on incredible lines with different rock, different size, in a different part of the world

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      I work with Guillaume Levernier, who helps me create a training program depending on my goals. After 8 years of training with different coaches from the French team, he is the most brilliant I have ever worked with, full of scientific concepts to train climbing differently (he has a PhD in sports science). For me it is very important to be accompanied by someone who has an outside perspective and does not get lost. So with Guillaume, I created a training plan for about 6 months a year.

      What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

      New exercises are the key and the answer to slow improvement! If you repeat something over and over again, you will eventually reach a top. But at the same time you need a minimum of repetitions to be able to do some new movements (careful with injuries! Listen to the signs of the body).

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      For me, it's the way to be stronger, in less time for my outside projects, so I train a lot inside. It's also a good meeting point for the community. Just one important point for me, is the education of new climbers coming from gyms regarding their behaviour outside (like brushing, taking their trash, respecting locals, trails...)

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      « Ahah strength is the base » I always say ! I can do two... close to three :)
      Never tried on single finger, I'm kind of careful with injuries and want to eliminate risks. But I play with 10mm holds :)

      How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

      It probably depends who you ask ! And It's really true that charisma influences numbers of opportunities.
      To me climbing skills and pushing limits should come first !

    • Psychology

      Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

      With loads of hard hard work, time, psyche and dedication, I believe it's possible for a big part of the population! Also probably depending on your situation, with the right choices, mind and advices. Tricky !

      How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

      I think goal setting is a fundamental part of professional sport.
      My goals are to complete climbs, from small to big, amazing and inspiring hard lines! I have a long list to accomplish, I admit that .... :)

      How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      I am a hard worker and I love to solve problems and focus on details. So extremely difficult climbing tasks motivate me more than stuff I can do quickly. But of course, then it can be a roller coaster of emotions! Of course, sometimes I get frustrated, but I try to focus on the small progress or positives I can have! And if I don't have the positive for a while, I change the "air" to come back stronger! I'm not the kind of person who gives up.

    • Future of climbing

      Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

      I don't think we can change the current developments, but I think we can give a personal, positive touch. Especially for issues related to the environment and the growth of climbing through the Olympics.

      Where do you think sport will go in the next few years? What will change? And what role will you play in it?

      With the massive development of climbing gyms lately, everyone can witness that climbing as a sport is exploding. I see my role as trying to inspire people on questioning themselves for better environmental choices, consider everyone behaves and advices with kindness to integrate new people in this magic community (good sens of the term). I hope this community will be an actor for the change of a lower impact on the environment !