Career Highlights

  • Freney’s Central Pilier from Monzino refuge to Goutier refuge in 21 hours

  • Philipp Flamm in 10 hours

  • Elettroschock, La Spada nella roccia, Delta Minox in Val di Mello

  • Via Oppio Colnaghi on Pizzo D’uccello freesolo (td, 850 mt, V grado)

  • Freesolo until 6b+

  • Free solo on Ice untill WI 4

  • Concatenazione creste Nattpiana, Garnerone, Contrario e Cavallo in val serenaia (alpi Apuane) in 8 ore e 37 minuti da Vinca a Vinca

  • Ginat route Droite’s North face

  • Schmidt route Cervino’s North face

What most people don't know about me:

I love cooking, bushcraft, woodcarve, sewing and in general home design.

    Interview

    • Climbing

      When and how did you get into climbing? What keeps you interested? What fascinates you?

      When I was 16 years old in the climbing gym, then in few years I fall in love with the wilderness of the mountain.

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      Bernard Moitessier, he is a solo sailor who did for the first time the world tour alone. His books are amazing, truly inspiring for an Alpinist, sea and mountain are very similar.

      What have been the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? And did you recognize them immediately as such or only later on?

      When in the Ginat route on Droite’s North face I risked a lot in a pitch not well protected, there I understood the importance of being alive and the privilege to be in such a beautiful place.

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      I fell 20 meters in a trad route in Morocco and I brok my left heel, but I recovered in a few months.

      What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?

      The history of Metanoia route by Jeff Lowe on the Eiger’s north face

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      Yes.

      What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

      Have constancy in training, ask an expert for a training routine and climb as much as possible outdoors.

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      It’s different, now more than ever, but if you know how to do it is crucial for training outdoor climbing.

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      Yes, only one.

      How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

      I cannot answer… It depends, all the pro climbers are different.

    • Psychology

      Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

      The only thing that really matters is the motivation… Starting from a good one, you can do what you want.

      How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

      It’s very important because goals drive you during the training and add motivation. But I think we still remember it’s only a game and the important things are others, like relations with people. Think outside the box, now the world accepts differences.

      My next project is open a route in Cochamò valley in Chile. And I don’t wanna say more because I'm superstitious in that matters…

      How do you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      They motivate me to train more and more! That’s the fun part! Once you did it, you already need to find something new!

    • Future of climbing

      Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

      Yes. The social network part. Everything looks shiny and cool and some people forget that you're on the wall for yourself first of all , and not to show others how good you are. That’s not a good enough reason to risk everything you have.

      Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

      I think indoor and outdoor climbing will split more and more,  and I think my role could be to help for people to cross the bridge between those two worlds in safety. Showing how to walk the path of alpinism with respect of the nature, of the mountain and of ourselves .