Loic Zehani

When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

I started climbing when I was 10 years old. My father has been climbing for many years. I started climbing late, but then never stopped again. I love to climb outside

Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

I don't really have a hero, but I'm very impressed with climbers like Chris Sharma, Alex Megos, Dave Graham, Adam Ondra.... They look so strong and have so much fun. In general, I'm not influenced by the looks of others, but sometimes I have to admit that I am a little bit impressed by it.

What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

First to give up soccer and start climbing. My first 8a a year later, my first 9a 3 years later and this summer my redpoint of "Le Cadre" in Céuse. All these moments were for me a kind of revelation that I found my way, my passion: Climbing.

What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

I remember the first time I went to Le Cadre in Céuse, I could do all the movements except one. That was the end of the vacation. I dreamed of this route all winter and was lucky enough to climb this "royal line" again a year later.

What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?

My story with "Le cadre" sure because in terms of pure difficulty, this is not the most difficult route, but it was the first time that I doubted especially during two months (August and September) when I could not go to Céuse. This route is so beautiful and Céuse is so special for me.

What most people don't know about me

I often sleep on the bottom on the crag during projects so I can start climbing right away the next day, like last summer in Céuse.

Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

I don't have a specific training plan or schedule for the year. From September to March I go bouldering twice a week in the climbing gym and sports climbing at the crag on weekends. From April to August I climb twice a week in the climbing gym and on weekends outside. For getting back into climbing, I climb 4 days a week.

What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

I do not think about myself that I do the best climbing training!!! Therefore no advice by me... Each person is different and each training should be different.

What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

Indoor climbing has allowed me to push my projects on the rock. And I like climbing in the hall (of course, not more than outside).

Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

Yes, I am able to do 6 one arm pulls up but I don't do it often. And yes I am able to do a one finger pull up but I don't do it often too because it is too dangerous and I don't want to hurt me.

How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

I don't know because I am not a pro climber. But I would say it depends on the climber. I hope that the share due to the actual climbing skill will always remain greater than the share due to show.

Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

I think all is possible when you want it really, really strong. That said it seems easier to do an one-arm pull up than get to the top of the Eiger!

How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

It is very important to set goals to make progress and keep the motivation ... My goals are varied, first I want to try "Biography" next summer, then I want to try "Action directe" in the Frankenjura. There are many routes that I want to try, difficult routes that are less known than "Biography" and "Action directe".

How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

I love hard climbing. If I can't do all the moves in a route, it doesn't discourage me. I try to come back stronger. Last week I tried "Le bombé bleu" in Buoux. It's a hard one (maybe 9a+ or 9b), it's too hard for me (at the moment), but I managed all the moves except one and I'm very motivated to go back as soon as I can.