Career Highlights

  • world cup gold medalist
  • bronze medal lead world championship 2021
  • second place european championship 2019
  • 2x9b redpoint
  • 2x8b+ onsight

Interview

  • Climbing

    When and how did you get into climbing? What keeps you interested? What fascinates you?

    I started climbing because my father used to. I immediately fell in love for this sport because every move, every route is different and there was not the right way to get to the top but i could search my own solution

    Who were your childhood heroes?

    My hero was Akyio Noguchi. i have never considered myself a role model, it is still strange when people in the gym or sometimes even at the supermarket congratulate me and ask for a picture

    What have been the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? And did you recognize them immediately as such or only later on?

    I can point out two important milestones which really changed my life. the first one was in april 2019 when i could join the police sport group and i could tourn my passion in a real job. the second was in september 2019 when i moved from rome to trento. i started living alone, i tarted university and i got the chance to train in the italian best climbing gyms. before living these moment i knew they would change my life but i couldn’t imagine how much.

    What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

    Fortunately I never had a big injury so far. maybe the hardest moment in my climbing life was at the end of 2020 when i had to leave my trainer. i trained with him for 12 years, since i started climbing, so it was hard to replace him. In my career I had to face a lot of failures in competitions, at the beginning i feel destroyed but after some days the failures give me the motivation to train even harder.

  • Training

    Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

    Yes. I am followed by a trainer who attends almost every training. when i am away he sends me the program I have to follow

    What advice can you give to others looking to improve their training routine?

    I think that many people focus on a single session instead of the whole training program. A single session or a single month can’t make the difference. what really counts is the long term training plan.

     

    What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

    I think that training indoor for competitions is the best trainig even for the rock. in fact the strongest competitive climber are extremely strong on rock too

    Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

    not a clean one. on a single finger i think i can’t even hang

  • Psychology

    Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

    I think that training hard everyone can perform a one arm pull up even if for someone is easy and for other is harder. it depends from your personal caracteristics you are born with. for example i have a lot of endurance so it s hard for me improving strenght. i think i can perform a one arm pull up if i follow a specific training but i would never perform it with 10 kilos, it’s just impossible for my caracteristics

    How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals? What targets are you working towards for your climbing and in life?

    I think that having a goal is the only way to achieve results. my primary goal is to enjoy climbing and training for my whole life. a more concrete but ambitius goal is to win the world championship and to climb a 9b+

    How do you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them? Or do they motivate you even more?

    Sometimes during training i feel extremely frustrated but this gives me the motivation to get better

  • Future of climbing

    Is there anything you would like to change about current developments in climbing?

    In the last year downgrading become extremely popular and I don't really like it. I think everyone should say his own opinion but the grade of a route can't change for the opinion of only one person, especially for historic routes

    Where do you think sport will go in the next few years? What will change? And what role will you play in it?

    I think climbing is becoming more and more popular. This is good because a lot of new gym are growing, more people are getting interested in our sport but I am afraid this could change our community and the fair play that has always been in climbing