Joshua Haynes

Favorite type of climbing (bouldering, sports climbing, trad, etc.):

I find that it's important for me to have a good balance of all styles.

When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

A friend I worked with at the time invited me to go rock climbing with him. I hesitantly said yes but was instantly hooked once I'd climbed my first route. I feel climbing is a perfect combination of mental toughness a physical fitness, and it's always amazing to be outside as much as possible. Climbing is one of the few things I've found that actually feeds my soul. Surfing is a close second.

Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

I don't remember really having a role model as a kid, aside form Voltron: Defender of the Universe of course. I certainly don't consider myself a role model but hope that I've been a positive influence for people, more than a negative one.

What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

The thing with climbing achievements, is that so many of them can feel like a milestone at the time. For me, anyway, I feel like anytime I send a "project", regardless of the grade, I've achieved a new milestone within myself. I know that's all sound a bit philosophical, but it's true for me. There are certainly things I've done that I feel proud about, but it's the experiences that really stick with me.

What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

I've been fortunate enough to not have had any major injuries or setbacks in regard to climbing, but I've certainly had my share of life setbacks. Every setback I have encountered has helped shaped me into who I am today, and I will forever be grateful for that.

What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?

I feel like there are too many to be able to pick just one. For me, it's all about the people I've met and climbed with through the years. My absolute best memories are ones like laughing with my partner on the side of the Grand Wall, or belaying my partner as they send their first 5.12, or playing "are they... in a relationship, partners, or friend zoned" in the parking lot of Red Rocks. I'm forever grateful to every single person I've met along the way, you have all made this life pretty amazing.

Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

As a full-time routesetter it's hard to have a real serious training schedule. I try to make the best of the time I get, but most importantly, I really try to listen to my body. I will definitely sneak in a hangboard work out or moonboard session when my body feels up to it.

What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

Listen to your body, and no matter what... don't overdo it. Injuries from overtraining are the WORST.

What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

Indoor gyms are great. They give you a consistent place to climb and train, and have directly helped progress the sport to what it is today. For me personally, there's no substitute for the outdoors, though.

Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

Yes and yes.

How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

Every success I've had climbing has been due to hard work. I'm not the most naturally gifted climber, so I've really had to out in the time and effort to get to where I am.

Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

We're all born with different genetics, and that means with all different limitations. I think with hard work and dedication, everyone can achieve their max.

How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

I think goals are very important for all things. Everyone has their own methods of setting and achieving goals, so I think it's important to stay true to what works for you. Personally, I have a few climbing related goals that are less about physical strength and more about knowledge and mental preparedness. I also have a main goal to continue to find ways to get stronger and stay healthy, while full-time setting.

How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

In the past, I would sometimes get so frustrated with myself, that I would have to walk away from the project for a bit. Over the years I've mellowed out a bit and have learned to appreciate the process a lot more.