Climbing training with Angy Eiter

Do you want to get the most out of yourself on the wall and on the rock? Then start the nine-week training system together with Angy Eiter and get fit for the first climbing trip of the season.

Train with Angy Eiter and go to your limit

Get fit for your climbing trip in 9 weeks

Spring is just around the corner and the planning for your first climbing trip is in full swing? Your equipment is already eagerly awaiting its use, but you are not yet fit! Of course you want to get everything you can out of it before you leave and prepare yourself accordingly... but what exactly is the best way to do that? Get started now with the training system from professional climber and EDELRID athlete Angy Eiter.

The Tyrolean has already completed countless training sessions. This training combined with her talent has made her one of the most successful climbers of our time: after multiple victories at World and European Championships, Overall World Cups and the Rock Masters, Angy was the first climber to crack a 9b in 2017 ("La Planta de Shiva", Villanueva del Rosario, Andalusia).

For 2018, Angy had set herself the goal of climbing many difficult routes or the maximum difficult route in just a few attempts during a short climbing trip. To achieve this, she trained hard and systematically - almost daily and to the limit, in other words: #DailyLimit. With the help of her plan, you too can pursue your climbing goals - make the most of the summer!

Get started together with Angy

The training plan includes different sessions spread over three cycles. Each cycle lasts about three weeks, so you'll be fit in nine weeks - just in time for Easter! It will be hard, but worth it!

As an additional motivation boost, at the end of the nine weeks you can win a training session with Angy in Imst (incl. overnight stay for one person).

Follow the training and the channels of EDELRID and Angy Eiter to find out more. To enter the prize draw, post your training progress and achievements under the hashtags #dailylimit and #edelrid.

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9 Week Training Plan

  • 1. Training cycle (duration: 3 weeks)

    Bouldering (1x per week)

    • Climb 3 difficult boulder problems with 3-6 moves of 3 series each with a 3 min series break.
    • Then climb 3 boulder problems with 6 moves in 3 series each with 1 min series break.

    General strength training (1x per week)

    • Do 4 general strength exercises (e.g. pull-ups, push-ups, abs & core)
    • 3 series with 2 min series break
    • Then do 4 exercises on the campus board, 3 series each with a 2 min series break.
    • Choose the exercises according to your level of performance and make sure they are performed correctly.

    Route climbing (2x per week)

    • Climb 8 routes within one difficulty level with a 10 min break between each route. Choose the intensity so that you can climb all routes with light fatigue top.
  • 2. Training cycle (duration: 3 weeks)

    Max. & speed strength

    Bouldering (2x per week)

    • Boulder shimmy: Try to climb a boulder with 6 moves as fast as possible and shimmy back down without legs (4 series with 2 min series break each).
    • 60 min bouldering. 40% of the boulder problems with easy intensity (success on the 1st - max 3rd attempt).
    • 60% of the boulder problems with difficult intensity (success at the 5th attempt at the earliest).
    • 4 exercises on the campus board with 3 series each and 2 min series break.

    Route climbing (2x per week)

    • Climb 6 difficult routes with a 10-15 min break between each route. Difficult means that you are not tired at the top or just below. You should be able to recover from this fatigue during the break.
  • 3. Training cycle (duration: 3 weeks)

    Focus on concentration

    Bouldering (2x per week)

    • 60-90 min of bouldering at light to medium intensity (approx. 40-60%) Ensure sufficient rest between hard bouldering sessions
    • 4 exercises on the campus board, 3 series each and 2 min series break

    Route climbing (2x per week)

    • Do 2 attempts in one project with 20-30 min break between the attempts
    • Then climb 5 difficult routes with 10-15 min break between attempts


I hope I was able to give you at least a little insight into what your personal training preparation could look like. And here is the hint again:
The training presented here is not a general recipe for everyone. It is important to adapt the training to your own needs and performance level in order to get the most out of it. Experience and a coach are very helpful.