Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?
I think genetics play a big role in all sports, you have to have a certain amount of talent to be the best at something.
There are however a lot of examples of really good climbers that aren’t talents at all, I think that a world Cup semifinal is something achievable, naturally with really hard work, even if you aren’t really born for it.
How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?
Setting a clear and achievable goal is maybe the most important thing not only in climbing but in all aspects of life.
In climbing not having a goal, especially in comps, means you don’t know what you train for, therefore is almost impossible to keep the motivation high and have a well-structured training program.
Setting the right goal is also really important, you really have to set the bar at the right height, don’t over-underestimate yourself!
How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?
I have a love-hate relationship with projecting problems at my limit: on one hand I really like the process of devoting all myself to one climb, inspecting all the detail and crafting the best possible beta, on the other hand, especially in bouldering, progress is often very slow and you happen to fall on the same move over and over and I often get really frustrated about it.
In the past I have given up a project, especially when I was really close, countless times as it became an obsession and I couldn’t enjoy the process anymore.
Now I obviously still get frustrated but I really try to put myself in “warrior mode”, forget about everything, and make an attempt giving 100%.