Career Highlights

Rockclimbing:

  • Supercrackinette, 9a+ (St Léger du Ventoux)
  • La Flûte en chantier, 8c+ (La Ramirole)
  • Omaha beach, 8b+ onsight (RRG)

Bouldering :

  • Forever more 8A+ & Disney production 8A/+ (Brione, Switzerland)

Competition :

  • Top 15 in Lead World Cup in 2018
  • Have been both in lead and bouldering national team in 2014
  • Podium in Lead European Youth Cup in 2012

 

Favorite places to live / climb / visit

I love crags with demanding climbing style such as le Rocher Crespin, la Ramirole, la Carrière du Maupas, Van d’en Haut, …

Even if I’m in love with rock, I really love the energy of the sea too … Les calanques de Marseille is a very magical place, especially in winter !

Favorite type of climbing (bouldering, sports climbing, trad, etc.):

Climbing on crimps for sure ! ;)

What most people don’t know about me:

- Don’t ask me for a flash … you could be very disappointed with my beta ! (unless you’re very short and you like very small crimp)

- My secret weapon when I’m too weak ? The scream ! Just before falling, it gives you power… just after falling, it helps you dealing with frustration.

    Interview

    • Climbing

      When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

      I started climbing when I was 12 and I like climbing because it’s demanding … and this is not grade dependent ! Whether in a 6a or in a 9a, climbing has the power to back you into a corner. Then it becomes both a physical and a mental game with yourself and you can feel some really unique emotions !!

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      For sure the power and the endurance of Ramon Julian really inspired me !

      I never consider myself as a role model. With my 1.52m height, it’s really rare that people look up to me ! ;) but I think my climbing style inspire extra-normal people to never give up and look for their own solution to solve a crux (even if it’s with some stupid beta!!)

      What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

      When I clipped the chain of Supercrackinette, I didn’t immediately understood the process was finished, but some days later, I realized I achieved something quite big.

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      The first season I tried Supercrackinette (9a+, St-Léger-du-Ventoux), after several month of trying hard, my shape was good and my attempts were better and better, but the summer was coming. I really felt I can send but temperatures were rising up. In June, after some weeks of obstinacy, I had to face the reality : I had to wait next autumn. It was really hard mentally to give up and I think Supercrackinette never really quit my mind during the summer. It was hard to take a step back or focus on something else. Instead of resting, I choose to go on training (to be sure to be in good shape in autumn) but sometimes, the best motivation can be your worst enemy !! It was definitely a bad choice : in November I hurt my finger (probably because I was tired). I had to stop climbing during one month and to postpone - again - my come back in Supercrackinette… I took time to see my friends and my family, I did some workout (without touching a hold), … Well, I learned patience !

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      It depends on the time of the year but Yes !

      What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

      Listen to your inner voice, enjoy what you are doing and don’t forget to climb. But, most of all, don’t look for THE secret sauce, find your own !!!

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      Indoor climbing gyms could be a very good tool to train for outdoor.

      Unfortunately in France most of the gyms are business-driven and only few are designed for the rock performance. Too much slabs, lots of dyno, no more finger strength needed … and no proper training wall ! To be honest, depending where you are living, it can become really difficult to find a good place to train …

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      Arm strength is not my best skills, but it’s my best way to balance my small height. So my one arm pull-up is really dependent to my shape, but let’s say yes ! ;)

      For the single finger, I never tried.

      How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

      Pro climbing men or Pro climbing women ? ;)

    • Psychology

      Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

      If it’s your dream, I’m sure you’ll find a solution to achieve it !

      How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

      I often says « The most important is to have a plan, to execute it … and to challenge it ! ». When I’m the more productive, my life is full of big goals and small steps. Big goals are important because they fuel your motivation. Small steps guide your path. Balance of both is the key to achieve your dreams !

      How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      For sure I’m in the  « Never give up » team. Which detail can be change in the beta ? What can I improve in the rhythm ? Is is better to try hard again or to take a rest ? All of that stimulate my motivation !

    • Future of climbing

      Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

      Less run-and-jump, dual texture holds and TikTok video ?

      Joking aside, with the Olympics and the fast development of commercial gym, there are more and more climbers and the climbing market becomes bigger. Climbing becomes a mainstream activity, the climbing world is changing really fast, and there are lots of thing to do to improve our activity.

      Sometimes I’m dreaming of …

      … A solid climbing community committed to its activity, more sensitive to environment, spending lots of time outside and be interested in rock climbing ethics as much as performance.

      … Climbing gym and outdoor brand contributing to a more sustainable world (both for human and environment)

      Where do you think sport will go in the next few years? What will change? And what role will you play in it?

      What will be climbing in a +4°C world ?

      Years by years, climate change faster, new planet boundaries are reached and inequalities are intensifying. Scientists, activists and new generation alert. It’s more than urgent to change direction, rethink the model of our society and the way we live with each others (humans and non-humans). Today, everyone has the responsibility to act : politics, leaders and citizens. And what about athletes?

      Outdoor athletes, we can face everyday the change of the natural world.

      Publicized athletes, by story we help to build and promote as a good way to act, we have a large influence on actors of our sport (climbers, brands, associations) and beyond

      International athletes, we are also part of the problem because of our travel and our daily presence in the natural world. 

      We have our role to play !