Career Highlights

Peuterey Integrale, Mont Blanc, Heckmair, Eiger Northface, Walkerspur, Grandes Jorasses

    Interview

    • Climbing

      When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

      I went Rockclimbing with a friend and loved it. My goal from the beginning was to climb harder to climb some nice alpine routes and thats what kept my motivation high

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      I never had a childhood hero, but I think Babsi Zangerl is a really inspiring climber. Really badass and so strong. I don't consider myself a rolemodel but i like to inspire other people.

      What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

      A milestone was definitely when I started paragliding. But it was only one or two years later that I began combining it with mountaineering in ways I didn’t even know were possible. That’s when I realized it was the missing piece for me.
      Another milestone in my life was studying dentistry. Only towards the end of my studies did I realize how lucky I am to have chosen a field that allows me to be flexible and gives me enough time to spend in the mountains.

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      My greatest setback was definitely my second ACL surgery in 2022. It forced me to become more creative with my training. I started doing a lot of cardio and fingerboarding, which allowed me to focus more on antagonist training and finger strength. In the end, I came back with a better mindset and stronger shoulders and good calves.

      What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?

      For sure the moment when I topped out on the Grandes Jorasses after climbing the Colton–MacIntyre, and then flying down with my paraglider from the summit and landing in Chamonix 20 minutes later.

       

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      I usually train on a spray wall twice a week before work, and once a week I go lead climbing in the evening. I also try to do at least two cardio sessions during the week. On weekends, I simply try to spend as much time as possible in the mountains and outdoors.

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      For me, indoor climbing is the perfect option to train well with little time. But of course nothing can replace real rock climbing. That’s where the real stuff happens.

      What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

      I would advise documenting everything you do in training. It helps you plan your rest days better and also makes it easier to see your consistency over time. And the most important thing: always listen to your body.

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      Absolutely not.

      How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

      I don’t know, better ask a pro climber.

    • Psychology

      Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

      I’m 100% sure about that, but you just have to work hard for it. No one achieves it without putting in the effort.

      How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

      For me, goals are the most important thing. Without goals, there is nothing to work towards. I have goals that are far away and less tangible, and others that I want to achieve in the next few months, so it always stays exciting. For me, it is important to balance my work and mountaineering well. My goal is to climb the most beautiful lines in the world and routes that keep pushing me to my limits.

      How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      As I’m not projecting a lot I usually don’t get frustrated easily but sometimes also a route on a mountain doesn't work out the way you want so you just have to reflect about everything, how to improve and how to do it better next time. I always think there is a
      reason why it didnt work out, and there will be the right moment when I will climb it.

    • Future of rock climbing

      Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

      I think it’s important that when climbing, the focus on nature and on having fun doesn’t get lost. Often it seems like people forget that. In the end, that’s really the only thing that matters: spending a beautiful day outside and moving your body. Otherwise, at some point you start to lose the joy in it.

      Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

      I think climbing will continue to develop individually in each discipline - the training, the hotspots, and the communities around them. I’ll keep training, setting new goals, and trying to push beyond my limits. But my main focus will remain mountaineering.