Interview

    • Climbing

      When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

      I started climbing in high school and immediately loved the feeling of moving upward using my whole body. What fascinates me about climbing is that there are so many aspects and disciplines. There is always one that fits my mindset at a given moment, whether it’s focusing on something very specific or going for huge days in the mountains. I never get bored for a single second.

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      My childhood heroes were definitely the Totally Spies and the Winx. Magical, cool, smart, and strong women, never afraid of going on epic adventures! Of course, they are very girly and stereotypical role models, but they are still incredibly badass.

      I believe we are all role models for someone. I don’t mind being looked up to because I just try to be myself, so I don’t feel pressured by it. You don’t have to be perfect to bring something to others—being yourself, tolerant, curious, and positive is already a lot.

      What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

      My first important milestone was going on my first climbing trips. I was 19 and didn’t know anyone to climb with, so I went by myself, hitchhiking across the Pyrenees to go climbing in Spain. It was scary and exciting at the same time, and I met people I’m still friends with today.

      My first sailing trip to Yosemite also deeply changed what I believed I was capable of, both in life and in climbing.

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      Recently, I had a big-wall season full of failures, mental breakdowns, and anxiety. It really made me question why I was doing exposed and scary climbs. It took a few weeks of hard doubts and difficult emotions, but in the end I found my answer.

      It was an important step in my climbing journey because my practice became the result of a conscious choice rather than a spontaneous urge. I also realized that if my goals are what they are, I need to put everything together and commit 200%.

      What is your favorite climbing-related story / experience?

      It’s hard to choose one, but simul-climbing in Yosemite holds some of my best memories—especially climbing the Nose in 6 hours with Seb Berthe. It was the perfect balance between feeling deeply challenged and feeling skilled and strong. I still can’t believe we were that fast!

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      Throughout the year, there are periods when I train indoors and others when I mainly focus on hard outdoor projects. I strongly believe that trying hard on rock is the best way to improve because it trains technical, physical, and strategic skills at the same time.

      That said, I’m aware of my weaknesses and know I need structured indoor training. During those periods, I follow a moderately strict plan: at least one board session, one lifting session, and one finger session per week. Other sessions are more flexible and depend on circumstances. I would always change my plan to climb with another woman at my level rather than strictly stick to the schedule. For me, who I climb with matters more than the plan itself.

      What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

      I believe consistency is the key. Sometimes progress takes a really long time, but it always comes if you train smart and hard. It’s also important to learn how to listen to your motivation, your body, and your mental signals. From there, it’s about knowing when to listen to them and when to push through. We are all different, and everyone has to find their own balance depending on their possibilities and self-knowledge.

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      For me, rock offers endless possibilities, allowing everyone to find their own way—there’s something magical about that. Very different people can climb the same route; the rock reduces differences and makes us all equal.

      Indoor climbing is less neutral, and sometimes I find it more frustrating because it can be harder for me to fully express myself. On the other hand, it’s an amazing way to improve and to share moments with others.

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      Sadly, no… maybe in ten years? 😄

      I don’t think it’s a very important skill for climbing unless you’re trying to send 9a+ routes or 8B boulders. I’m really not a powerful climber, but I always find my own way through sequences. It’s a bit of a mystery sometimes!

      How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

      Great question! I think it’s a mix of both. You can achieve great performances, but it’s just as important—maybe even more—to find a way to share them with people. If climbing is only a personal journey, then being a professional doesn’t really make sense. But if you enjoy sharing the emotions and stories behind your climbs with authenticity, then it does.

    • Psychology

      Is performance mainly talent or environment?

      For me, environment plays a huge role. Your social context is crucial for building confidence and having opportunities to improve. We are not equal when it comes to performance—having support from family and friends is already a privilege. Growing up with mountain culture, being able to afford gym access, and having time to go outside all matter a lot. Climbing is actually very inaccessible for many people.

      How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      I usually won’t spend weeks trying something completely out of my reach, but trying hard things doesn’t frustrate me. Attempting routes that feel too hard is part of the process, and failure is essential for improvement. I deal with hard climbing problems by not being afraid to fail.

    • Future of climbing

      Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

      I would love to see indoor and outdoor climbing more connected. It’s not fair that so many indoor climbers don’t feel legitimate going outside. Every way of practicing climbing is valuable—there is no single “better” approach.

      Most indoor gyms are based on a capitalistic model where everything has to be bigger, cleaner, and shinier. I enjoy those gyms too, but I would love to see more communal and accessible spaces.

      Where do you think sport will go in the next few years? What will change? And what role will you play in it?

      Sport and society are obviously very connected. Climbing isn’t a heavenly bubble, and with what is happening in the world right now, I think our lives are about to change deeply. I hope climbing gonna bring us together and reinforce some values such as solidarity and defense of the rights of everybody. We can see in the U.S that something is moving, athletes are speaking up, even if they are scared and feel powerless, because it feels like a dark turning point is happening. I think athletes must carry this movement of wide unacceptance, use their voice to share information, calls for protests, vulnerability. Maybe we shouldn’t deaden the community too much with performance while the world is burning, our democraties are flickering and the rule of law is attacked by the power of money and rejection of diversity and equality.