CLIMB & SAIL

This summer, I was given the opportunity to take part in an environmental, educational climbing project in Brazil. My home for three and a half weeks was the Maewan sailboat. The non-profit organization of the same name aims to promote collective wellbeing in a world with limited re- sources. It has been circumnavigating the world for six and a half years now, supporting program- mes with world-class athletes and combining sports with local, educational and environmental activities.

The Maewan was to sail from Florianopolis to Rio de Janeiro. I was imme- diately attracted to the project as it combined two of my favourite sports– climbing and surfing – and workshops for disadvantaged youth in one of Rio de Janeiro’s favelas. This adventure was a great opportunity to launch the “climb green” movement – sailing to climbing areas and reaching the shore by SUP doesn’t get greener!

I came on board near São Paulo. For the Brazilian stage, the crew initially consisted of Erwan Le Lann (skipper, mountain guide and expedition co-leader), Marion Courtois (president and expedition co-leader), Monica Dalmasso (photo- grapher), Juliana Petters (climber), Lani, her 11-year-old daughter and me. In Rio, we were joined by Antony Newton and Pablo Signoret (highliners and BASE jumpers), and Julie Mailhé, a climate expert with NGOs.
When I saw the Maewan, my first impression was: “It’s way too small! How are we supposed to fit in there? And why is it moving so much.” To be honest, I thought I would never survive. But in the end, everything went smoothly, you just need to get used to it. The Maewan is custom-designed to live in an eco- logically responsible way. It has no shower, no toilet, (the ocean does that job), saves water (sea water to clean dishes) and saves waste (composting). The crew eat local and seasonal food. Sometimes we would even get “uber eats” deliveries straight from local fishermen, with delicious fresh fish and coconuts. Over the first two weeks, we climbed in several places (Ilha Bela, Ubatuba, Parati) and also got to surf a little. We went exploring to try to find new climbing spots. Tra- velling by boat means you’re very dependent on the weather, but we got to visit some spectacular crags. My favourite was Pontão da Fortaleza, the small Brazilian bouldering paradise. Located in Ubatuba, at the end of Fortaleza beach, this place immediately blew our minds. The rock is incredible, the surroundings exceptional and the boulders pure quality. There are more than 100 boulde- ring problems and there’s a guidebook for the area.

Another cool spot was Cepilho beach, close to Parati. Cepilho is also a great surfing spot. We left the sailboat and took a bus in Parati, loaded up with our boards, climbing gear, sunscreen and crash pads. There is a vast quantity of boulders, but a lot of the sandstone is very slippery. Erwan and climbed a few problems, including a beautiful high-ball crack. Then we switched rock shoes for wetsuits and has a quick surfing session, followed by pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese buns) with our feet in the sand.

The last ten days of the trip were in Rio, where we worked in the favela. After two weeks in nature with no other sound but the waves, arriving in Rio was overwhelming. Especially because we moored the boat at the foot of the Pao de Azucar (Sugarloaf Mountain), a busy spot.

Our objective was to deliver workshops for children in the community and build awareness of ecological citizenship. At the same time, we helped local adults to develop their professional (sometimes sports) projects. The week went by so quick. The kids were bundles of energy and the adults were highly motivated. We even did a surfing session with them, thanks to a surf club in the favela. And we were able to encourage the kids to climb by the beach. It was the first time ever for them – they had just so much fun.

The favela Babilonia and Chapeu Mangueira are a wonderful world, colourful, alive, dynamic, joyful, and full of human warmth – despite the drugs cartels, corrupt police, gun shootings, fear and pain. The week ended with a unique experience for all – the sight of Pablo and Anto walking on a highline on top of the favela, a first in Rio de Janeiro. Everyone came out to watch and cheer them on, even the police. It was a magical and memorable moment.

During our time in the favela, we also climbed during our time off. On the week- end, we crammed in a night bouldering session, a multi-pitch on the Sugarloaf and some sport climbing. All of it on an insane quality rock. As a city, Rio offers a wide range of climbing.

This trip was a very fulfilling experience for me. Living on a sailboat in basic con- ditions, taking a greener approach to climbing, sharing knowledge about the en- vironment with kids, helping adults to develop their own projects and spending time in the favela with people who have very little. All of that was very inspiring. Huge thanks to Maewan and my sponsors, without whom it wouldn’t have been possible – Edelrid, Looking for Wild, Tenaya, and Planetgrimpe