Career Highlights

Gousseault Desmaison - Grandes Jorasses Peuterey Integrale - Mont Blanc Traverse Royal Climb & Fly Solo in a Day - Mont Blanc

    Interview

    • Climbing

      When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

      I always wanted to climb bigger and more challenging mountains. It started with the local hills around my former home in Munich, and over time the objectives became more and more ambitious. At some point I realized that if I wanted to climb harder mountains and more technical routes, I needed to start training properly. That’s when I began focusing more on climbing. Through that process I developed a real interest in the sport itself, the movement, the technique and the constant progression.

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      My childhood hero was Ueli Steck. What inspired me most about him was that he did things differently and, by doing so, revolutionized the sport. His approach to moving fast and light in the mountains really changed what people thought was possible. I don’t really see myself as a hero or a role model. I’m just someone who loves spending time in the mountains and pushing my own limits. But I’m aware that people sometimes follow what I do, and that definitely influences how I approach things. It motivates me to stay authentic and show the real process behind climbing and alpinism, not only the successes but also the learning along the way.

      What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

      One of the more important milestones in my life was building my van. At the time I didn’t realize how much it would influence the way I approach alpinism. Being able to sleep almost anywhere and move spontaneously to wherever the conditions or weather are best made climbing much more effective and enjoyable. It gave me a lot more freedom in the mountains and allowed me to spend more time outside rather than planning logistics. Looking back, I only realized later how much this decision changed the way I live and climb.

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      One of my biggest setbacks happened in February 24´ when I crashed my paraglider. I destroyed my ankle, broke my back, and severely injured my elbow. It took nearly two years of surgeries and rehabilitation to get back to climbing and moving in the mountains painfree. In some ways, I came back stronger than before. My ankle doesn’t allow me to cover really long distances anymore, so I focused more on climbing, and at the same time I had to climb with less brute power and rely more on technique. Now that my strength is returning, I can really feel a big difference in my movement and efficiency. This experience gave me a new understanding of climbing that I wouldn’t have gained otherwise.

      What is you favorite climbing related story / experience?

      I think topping out any North Face and finally reaching the summit after hours in the shade, climbing through the snow cornices, is always a special moment. There’s something incredible about standing on top after such a long effort. It’s even better when I have my paraglider with me and can fly down to the valley for burgers in just 15 minutes. That combination of climbing, flying, and freedom makes the experience unforgettable.

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      Yes, I structure my training. I do board climbing twice a week before work, sport climbing once a week after work, one session of intervals, and two aerobic cardio sessions weekly. On weekends, I focus on spending as much quality time as possible in the mountains, combining climbing, alpinism, and other outdoor activities.

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      I’d love to spend much more time climbing on real rock, but for someone who works a regular job, it’s often a matter of time. Indoor climbing gyms are more convenient and effective for training, since you can go straight to the board instead of driving somewhere. For me, gyms are a tool to build strength and technique, but nothing replaces being on actual rock.

      What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

      I think the most important thing is to find what works for you. I can only speak for myself, but I stick to a regular training routine alongside work during the week. On weekends, I go where the conditions are good and focus on whatever I feel like doing. Keeping it consistent during the week while staying flexible and motivated on weekends works really well for me.

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      Nope :(

      How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

      I don´t know, better to ask a pro climber.

    • Psychology

      Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

      I think anyone can achieve it, it mostly depends on when you start and how dedicated you are. I climbed the Matterhorn just three years after I started spending more time in the mountains, and the Eiger North Face after five years. With consistent training, focus, and experience, most goals in Alpinsim are achievable, it’s more about discipline and progression than being “born” for it.

      How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

      I think setting goals is the most important part of sports. This year, I want to complete all the 4000ers in the Alps, I still have two left. After that, I’m looking forward to climbing in Patagonia around Christmas. Goals keep me focused, motivated, and constantly pushing my limits, both in climbing and in life.

      How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      Most of the time, I let my partner, Judith, lead the extremely hard rock pitches for me 😉. I don’t really focus on projecting sport climbs because I’m not concerned with grades for me, climbing is mostly about training and improving for high mountain objectives. Hard problems don’t frustrate me; they’re just part of the process, and I use them to learn and develop my technique.

    • Future of rock climbing

      Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

      I think people should focus a bit more on the nature and experience of climbing, rather than constantly chasing grades. Too often, I see sport climbers getting frustrated over numbers instead of enjoying the process and the mountains. For me, climbing is about movement, learning, and being in nature, that’s what makes it fun and meaningful.

      Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

      To be honest, I’m not sure where climbing will go in the next few years. I think the sport will continue to grow and evolve, and new styles and challenges will emerge. My focus will stay on exploring the mountains, pushing my own limits, and hopefully inspiring others to enjoy climbing in a natural and authentic way.