Career Highlights

Various first ascent like “affinità elettive” 9a+, “Absinthium “9a, “Nascosto dalle foglie” 9a.

Some cool repetitions of benchmark routes like : “Thin ice “ 8c in Terlago, “Pungitopo 8c+” Arco, “drumtime “ & “child in time” 8C+ in Fonzaso, and various route in the crag of Erto like “ la linea dei sogni “ 8C+ and “sogni di gloria” 8b+.

Some alpine routes on the Dolomites, around Civetta, Marmolada (The fish)  and Sas Dla Crusc ( Menhir on the central pillar) , on the Eiger ( deep blue sea) and all over the Alps.

Also some ice on the Dolomites and Valle D’Aosta ( repetance)

    Interview

    • Climbing

      When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

      I got started thanks to my parents. I had found their old climbing gear at home, so I asked if I could give it a try. They took me to a valley near our home, but when it came to actually climbing, I was so frightened that I completely lost interest in the sport.

      Then, for some reason, a few years later, when I was a bit older, I asked to try again. This time, though, something clicked, and that was when the spark was lit.

      What fascinates me most is feeling my body move across the rock, having the opportunity to push my limits, try new experiences, and discover new places all the time.

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      When it comes to climbing, Patrick Berhault remains a source of inspiration for me. As a child, I found an old photographic book about him among my parents' belongings, and his character has stayed with me ever since. He embodied a rare sense of humility, quietness and elegance, both on the rock and in everyday life.

      What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

      Personally, I don't think I've reached any major milestones in my career so far, even though it has been shaped by many small achievements. Becoming a mountain guide, having the privilege of establishing first ascents, and knowing that the people around me care for me and appreciate what I do – these are the small yet significant rewards that mean the most to me.

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      Thankfully, I've never had any major injuries, aside from the typical finger issues that seem to come with being a climber. Naturally, when you can't do what you love for a period of time, it feels like the world is crashing down around you. In the end, though, I've learned that these things pass. Patience and the ability to wait are often the greatest strengths you can rely on when it comes to returning stronger than before.

      What is your favorite climbing related story / experience?

      I was climbing a multi-pitch route that, at the time, was right at the limit of my abilities. I was on the final pitch, completely exhausted. I could see the belay at the top, but those last few metres felt impossible. The only piece of protection below me was a very questionable cam, which did little to boost my confidence. In the end, I took a deep breath and kept going. Somehow, despite being utterly drained, I reached the top, where I was greeted by an extraordinary sunset. It was an incredible feeling.

       

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      I don't follow a strict training programme, but I do try to be extremely consistent and disciplined in my training. I started out entirely self-taught and have always trained with whatever I had available at home: a hangboard, some weights, a pull-up bar, and a bit of imagination! This has probably held me back in certain styles of climbing, but on the other hand, it has helped shape me into the climber I am today.

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      There's no doubt that the growth of climbing gyms has had a huge impact on the overall standard of climbing. Routes that were once regarded as cutting-edge are now being climbed with remarkable ease by a new generation raised in the gym. The sport itself has evolved, and climbing style has changed along with it, thanks in large part to indoor climbing. Naturally, rock and plastic are very different experiences, but nowadays they complement each other perfectly, especially for anyone looking to perform at a high level.

      What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

      Most importantly, be patient and understand that improvement takes time. Climb because you enjoy it, focus on the process, and appreciate every moment of the journey

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      Not at all! Hahaha

      How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

      That's a great question! The short answer is that there are plenty of exceptionally talented climbers who remain largely unknown, while others are constantly in the spotlight on social media and across the media despite having a relatively modest climbing level. In the end, it's up to people to look beyond the image and tell the difference between what's real and what's simply being presented. What's really important is recognising genuine skill and the authenticity behind what someone does.

    • Psychology

      Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

      There are certainly no limits, and each of us should strive for whatever we desire most. Mountains, however, are a slightly different matter. To paraphrase Ueli Steck, “Being in the mountains isn't something you can learn from a book - you have to be out there.”

      How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

      Having goals is what gets you out of bed in the morning and pushes you to work hard in training. I don't have the ambition to become the strongest climber of all; I simply want to become the strongest version of myself. I want to explore my own limits and try to repeat some of the routes that have inspired me for years.

      How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      Of course it happens to me! Dealing with the difficulties of a hard sequence on a climbing route is never easy, and at times I find it genuinely discouraging. Not being able to make a move work and constantly racking your brains to find a solution can be incredibly frustrating. But after repeated attempts, when you finally succeed, it's a powerful reminder that the effort, determination and persistence you've invested always pay off in the end.

    • Future of rock climbing

      Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

      I'd like to see people approach everything with a little more patience and a greater sense of respect — for the environment, for history, and for one another. Climbing is a wonderful activity, but it takes place in a fragile environment that we have a responsibility to protect, both for ourselves and for future generations. The same applies to the ethics of climbing, which at times seem to be forgotten or overlooked.

      Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

      That's a difficult question to answer, and I don't think anyone really knows for sure. Climbing standards will probably keep getting higher, the number of climbers will continue to grow, and crags will become increasingly busy. Maybe there will be more regulations and access restrictions in the future — who knows?

      Personally, I try not to worry too much about it. I focus on the present and enjoy climbing while I can. Then one day, when my arms have turned into melted cheese, I'll just sit back, watch the younger generation, and have a good laugh about it!