Career Highlights

Sportklettern

  • Jungfraumarathon (9a), Gimmelwald, CH
  • La Cabane au Canada (9a), Rawyl, CH
  • Esclatamasters (8c+), Perles, Spanien
  • La ligne Claire (8c+), St. Leger, Frankreich
  • Pure Imagination (8c+), Red River Gorge, USA
  • Lucifer (8c+), RRG
  • Southern Smoke (8c+), RRG
  • Humildes pa Casa (8b+) onsight, Spanien
© Jon Shen

Tradklettern

  • The Doors (8a+), Cadarese, Italien
  • Bookcake (8a), Cadarese, Italien
  • Mustang (7c) onsight, Cadarese

Mehrseillängen

  • Hotel Supramonte (8b), Gorropu Canyon, Sardinien
  • Madame Cookie (8a+), Gorges du Verdon, Frankreich

Favorite places to live / climb / visit:

I love climbing in the Red River Gorge. Having stayed in the U.S. for extended periods a few times, I've had the opportunity to climb there quite a lot. I also enjoy climbing in Switzerland and France, which are conveniently a bit closer to me.

Favorite type of climbing (bouldering, sports climbing, trad, etc.): 

Sport climbing

What most people don't know about me: 

I enjoy listening to intense German and French rap while I'm training. It really motivates me.

Interview

  • Climbing

    When and how did you get into climbing? What keeps you interested? What fascinates you?

    My dad introduced me to climbing when I was really young. When I was six years old, I mainly started climbing indoors. From age nine to 18, I focused mainly on competition climbing. In 2017, I started to travel and climb more outside, and since then, I've found a much bigger passion for rock climbing.

    Climbing has brought me so much in life. It is one of the best feelings for me to be on a wall and I can forget everything around me. It can simply be about movement, but it is also a wonderful vehicle for traveling and for finding a welcoming community. I can challenge myself, set goals, train hard for them, be in nature and visit the most beautiful places. Climbing gives me purpose in life.

    Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

    I don’t think I had a specific childhood hero, but I do look up to, for example, Babsi Zangerl. I find it very impressive how she is such a strong all-rounder, excelling in different disciplines. I find it very inspiring because I also want to branch out into other disciplines and become a more diverse climber.

    I don’t consider myself a role model, but sometimes I receive feedback from others that people enjoy watching me when I’m climbing and trying hard. If I can inspire people through my climbing, that means a lot to me.

    What have been the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? And did you recognize them immediately as such or only later on?

    One of the most significant milestones in my life has been climbing 9a and my progression in rock climbing in itself. Over three to four years, I advanced from climbing at the 8b level to reaching the 9a level. I've learned a lot and improved in different styles of climbing. Sometimes, I forget to feel proud of what I've accomplished, but I'm trying to remind myself not to take it for granted.

    What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

    Recently, I had a highly successful climbing trip to Southern France and Spain. I was experiencing an extreme high in my performance; I felt immense joy and endorphins from my successes, reaching a state of happiness. Despite sensing that my body was becoming tired, I didn’t take much rest in between because I couldn't control my excitement. I continued climbing, pushing my body too hard, and as a result, I ended up feeling extremely exhausted and powerless. I had no energy left. I returned home earlier than planned and finally gave my body the much-needed rest it required.

    Reflecting on this experience, I recognize my tendency to exceed my own limits. I hope I can listen better to my body in the future. There is nothing more important than listening to your body and mind and finding a healthy balance between the psych and the limits of the body.

    What is your favorite climbing related story / experience? 

    Trad climbing in Indian Creek in Moab was one of the wildest experiences I have had so far, being deep in the desert with no internet and an unlimited amount of crack climbing. Before I went there, I didn’t have much crack climbing experience. One of my goals was to be able to hand jam and feel more comfortable placing protection and leading pitches. I have to say, I definitely struggled in the first few days. I hadn’t climbed any proper cracks before, and the style is very unique. Once I set aside my ego a little and gave myself some time to learn the technique, I wouldn’t have thought in those first few days that I would eventually be so hooked on it. It was so cool for me to see that even after climbing for most of my life, there is still so much in climbing for me to learn

     

  • Training

    Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

    During my time competing, I followed a strict training schedule, but now it's less structured. However, between my rock climbing trips, I like to dedicate time to training to improve or maintain my fitness and stay motivated. When I train, I focus on board climbing, campus exercises and hangboarding.

    What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

    It's important to make your training routine fit your goals and abilities. One thing that helps me is writing down what exercises I'll do, along with sets and breaks. This keeps me on track and helps me stick to my plan. Also, make sure to progressively increase the difficulty of your workouts, focus on doing exercises correctly, and give your body enough rest. And always pay attention to how your body feels, so you can adjust your routine if needed.

    What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

    Both indoor climbing gyms and outdoor climbing have their good points, and lots of climbers like them both for different reasons. Indoor climbing is good for practicing and getting better at specific things, while outdoor climbing is more exciting for me and lets you feel closer to nature.

     

    Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

    No, I can't. But I don't think it's particularly useful for climbing either way.

    How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

    It always depends on the climber and their personality. I think a combination of both can be beneficial. Personally, I lean towards prioritizing actual climbing skills side.

  • Psychology

    Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

    Some might have to work harder for it than others, but I guess, with the right mindset and determination a lot can be achieved.

    How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

    Setting goals in climbing and sports is important. For me, it is sometimes a bit of a mix - While I don't always have a specific goal during training, I'm dedicated to staying fit and feeling strong on the wall. It is about pushing myself to climb as many routes as I can, especially enjoying the challenge of onsight attempts and trying to redpoint routes quickly. However, I do recognize the value of having projects to work towards. It's a balance between structured goals and the spontaneous thrill of climbing that keeps me motivated.

    How do you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

    Dealing with extremely challenging climbing problems can be a test of patience and perseverance. I haven't dedicated extended periods to a single route or project yet. In sport climbing, I always aim to do moves within a few tries to feel like its achievable.

    For a long-term project, I’m not sure if I would handle the frustration so well without visible progression. Maybe I haven't found the perfect route for that kind of commitment yet. It's something I could learn from, but I'm not sure if it's what I want at the moment. There are so many places and different diciplines (multi pitching, trad climbing etc.) that I’m motivated to explore.

  • Future of climbing

    Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

    When I first started competing, the climbing style was still very much old-school. It's been interesting to see how climbing has changed over time, but personally, I wasn't a fan of the new, futuristic style they started pushing in competitions. That's one reason why I stopped competing. However, I still enjoy watching competitions, and I'm really happy I found my true passion in rock climbing. In a way, it is cool how climbing can be enjoyed in different ways. Modern competition style seems a lot riskier and more likely to cause injuries. I hope this doesn't become more common.

    Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

    In the future, more people will likely start climbing. With the increasing numbers of gyms, climbing and bouldering have become much more approachable. I just hope that as more people head outdoors, we are respectful of nature and of each other, sharing routes and boulders.

    I enjoy spreading my love for climbing and showing how much joy it can bring. The climbing community is great because it includes everyone.