Story: Symbol of his "Identität" - Simon Gietl on solo first ascent in the Dolomites

We are happy to share this exciting news and pictures from our EDELRID athlete Simon Gietl! The South Tyrolean mountain guide and alpinist has successfully mastered his solo first ascent of the "Identität". Where? On the west face of the Mittlerer Zwölfer/Croda Antonio Berti in the Sesto and Auronz Dolomites. The difficulty of the 500 m high route is 8 and A1.

“IDENTITÄT is what I call my new solo first ascent on the “Mittlerer Zwölfer” west face! Upon closer inspection, the route reflects my identity as an alpinist. The style I have chosen reflects my values, which in some ways cause great suffering but also great satisfaction. For me, this line is, so to speak, an identity-forming place of fulfillment that seems harmonious and consistent to me. Just as there should be countless self-images, there can also be different interpretations of comfort and satisfaction.”

Simon had been thinking about the route for more than 10 years. But he always waited for the right time to implement it. When a major rockfall occurred on the wall 6 years ago, the goal seemed a long way off. Nevertheless, Simon stuck to his idea and this year he finally planned an ascent with his rope partner Robert Jasper. However, as he was recovering from a lengthy injury, he had to cancel the planned venture. But there was no changing Simon's decision. Since he couldn't find a suitable replacement climbing partner at such short notice, he finally decided to make the first ascent solo. And so began a great adventure...

„On the second day I was surprised by a cold front, and I decided to wait at the last stand for almost five hours until the sun came out in order to have a realistic chance of making it further in the yellow, steep rocky section. When the sun peeked around the corner, it was immediately covered by a big, thick cloud and I had to accept that I wasn’t able to climb any new meters today. But I knew it wasn’t a failure by a long shot because I’d be back!”

The first ascent of the "Identität" lasted a total of 6 days, but on 5 days Simon had to stop already at noon, because the weather conditions were very unstable.

„As I left the yellow, steep wall area behind me, I felt like nothing could stop me from completing my dream line.” And so Simon reached the summit of the Mittlerer Zwölfer after 6 days! Congratulations from EDELRID on this great success!

Simon also answered some questions about his project. You can read his answers below!