Career Highlights

  • Cerro Chaltén (Fitz Roy) – East face – El Corazòn

  • Eiger – North face – Heckmair solo

  • Drei Zinnen Traverse: Scoiatolli on Westliche Zinne, Dülfer on Große Zinne, Normal route on Kleine Zinne,  Punta Frieda and Preußturm.

  • Drei Zinnen: three north faces in one day: Cassin, Comici, and Innerkofler.

  • Greenland, Fox Jaw Cirque, The Molar, "Disco Fox": first ascent and first team free ascent with female DAV Expedkader, 2023

What most people don't know about me: 

Once I ate one piece of a pizza with pineapple although I am half Italian.

    Interview

    • Climbing

      When and how did you get into climbing? What keeps you interested? What fascinates you?

      I grew up in Innsbruck surrounded by mountains. So moving into them came quite naturally. As a child I started climbing in a gym but never too serious. We mostly did “huge” pendulums through the small gym. It was not until age 17 that I started ice climbing and mountaineering, with my brother, and not long after I got into the DAV Expedition team. So far it’s been easy to stay motivated because I find direct, raw contact with nature to be very rewarding, and I enjoy trying to progress in the different aspects that the sport offers.

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      My mum is kind of my hero. I realized it quite late but: she is damn smart; she is successful, has no need to show it; she is chilled; she is loving, honest and independent. She doesn't care much about the opinions that others have of her, and she for sure doesn’t want to be a hero of any sort, but is one for exactly that reason.

      I don’t see myself as a role model, but I know that people start to look up to me, so I try to act and share things according to my values as a human and as a climber.

      What have been the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? And did you recognize them immediately as such or only later on?

      Finishing university to become Dr. med univ. Becoming a IVBV mountain guide. Finding passion in climbing.

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      Getting hit by rockfall on Gervasutti Pillar in Chamonix, thinking I was about to die, but getting away with just a broken foot and coming back stronger.

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      No.

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      I like climbing in the gym more than outdoors. :-)

       

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      No. And no.

    • Psychology

      Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

      In theory anyone can climb the Eiger or do a one-arm pull-up. These are not necessarily world class feats. But to be at the top of your game, you really have to be privileged enough to get the chance to work hard, stay focused and on top of that you need a good dose of luck. It starts with the lottery of your birthplace. For most the Eiger or a one arm pull up will never be their top priority!

      How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

      In the more physical facets of the sport it is very important to set goals which motivate you to train hard. But in alpinism it is helpful to be more flexible, to live in the moment and without too much pushing let things happen when and if the conditions and situation arise.

      How do you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      Of course I get frustrated, but also motivated.

    • Future of climbing

      Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

      My hope is that the sport will continue to become more welcoming to people from all walks of life and origins, adding diversity. As far as alpinism,  the change in the climate will continue to shift seasonality, forcing us to adapt and reframe. At a personal level I hope to be able to contribute thanks being a mountain guide and doctor.