Career Highlights

I think the route that gave me the most satisfaction is Svalutation, an 8a in Cornalba that’s only had two ascents—mine and my climbing partner’s—30 years after the first free ascent. It’s not the hardest route I’ve climbed in terms of grade, but it’s the most meaningful to me, also because I think it’s harder for my body type. I’m also very attached to my ascent of Newton, an 8b at one of my home crags.

    Interview

    • Climbing

      When and how did you get into climbing and what kept you interested / fascinated in the sport?

      For me, it was love at first sight! My parents used to climb but stopped before I was born; later, a childhood friend took me to the crag for the first time when I was 18. At the time I was boxing, but my passion for climbing quickly took over and I’ve never stopped since. It was summer, during the school holidays, and I remember desperately begging everyone—my mum included—for rides (I didn’t have a driver’s license!) and for belays, just to find a way to get to the crag!

      Who was your childhood hero and do you consider yourself a role model now? Does it influence you at all that other people look up to you?

      That’s a difficult question… honestly, I don’t remember having any “role models” as a child, but I certainly admired people who had a deep passion for their sport.
      As for feeling like a role model myself, I’ll be honest: on a personal level I don’t see myself as a reference figure, but I’d be lying if I said I couldn’t be an inspiration to someone, because in recent years reality has led me to become aware that I do have something to share and pass on. I try to stay objective, even though it sometimes feels like I’m bordering on arrogance. I don’t think this dynamic has had a major impact on who I am, precisely because I don’t see myself as a “public figure,” and because what I say and what I stand for is aligned with my authenticity… if anything, it’s helped me become more aware of what I’ve just described—and a bit more confident in myself.

      What were the most important milestones in your life so far, both in climbing and in everyday life? Did you immediately recognize them as such or only later on?

      I believe freedom is the cornerstone of my life—it’s what has allowed me to discover and reach happiness.

      What were your greatest failures / setbacks / injuries? How did you cope with them and how did you come back from them?

      My greatest failure has been attaching my sense of worth too closely to my climbing performance. I still slip into that mindset at times, but in general, thanks to mental training and deep personal work, I’ve learned to handle it much better 😊

      What is you favorite climbing related story / experience?

      I love every story Hazel Findlay tells about her climbing experiences, but Lynn Hill’s free ascent of The Nose has been especially inspiring for me 😊

    • Training

      Do you have a strict training schedule for when and how you train throughout the year?

      Yes, I’ve been coached for three years now, and I have a great relationship with my coach. The planning changes from time to time based on my needs 😊

      What do you think of indoor climbing gyms in relation to climbing on actual rock?

      I’ve never really been particularly interested in indoor climbing, so maybe I’ve never fully understood it. What I feel when I climb on plastic is that the mental component loses importance… and that’s the part of climbing I’m most connected to 😊

      What advice can you give to somebody looking to improve their training routine?

      I think planning and method are an important part of training, but above all, having strong self-awareness as a climber is essential in order to work on your weaknesses.

      Are you able to do a one-arm pull-up? How about a single finger?

      …in the making :D

      How much of the success as a pro climber is due to show and how much due to actual climbing skill?

      This is a question that touches a sensitive nerve for me. Part of me says athletic achievement should be the main focus, but then I realize that this means valuing only the outcome. That’s not why I climb—and I think many of us feel the same. A friend once told me, “There are plenty of strong people out there, and it’s often just empty noise,” so I don’t believe success is about putting on a show; it’s about having something meaningful to share. I’ve always admired athletes who can communicate more than just their results. It’s not what you do, but how you do it.

    • Psychology

      Is it possible for anybody to eventually perform a one-armed pull-up or get to the top of the Eiger/Matterhorn, or do you really have to be born for it?

      No, to be honest I think determination and the courage to believe in your dreams are worth much more than genetic predisposition. That said, I know this is a generalization and it doesn’t consider the most important factor: every person is different and functions according to their own unique characteristics.

      How important is it to set goals in professional sports? What are your goals / targets you are working towards in climbing and in life?

      Goal-setting is a very important tool for achieving your objectives, both in life and in climbing. I use it often in my work as a mental coach to help people find peace in their relationship with climbing.
      My goals are a bit unclear at the moment, but that’s okay—there are times when I think it’s important to let the wind carry you a little in order to find balance       😊 In general, though, my guiding star is the desire to improve as a climber in a 360-degree way, working on my weaknesses.

      How to you deal with extremely hard climbing problems? Do you ever get frustrated and give up on them or do they motivate you even more?

      My approach to difficulty has evolved a lot over the years. Years ago I really struggled when I couldn’t complete a move, because I saw it as proof that the route was too hard for me and that I didn’t deserve to try it. This unintentionally led me to only challenge myself with routes whose difficulty was defined by endurance. Then I realized that this way I would never expand my motor skills and I would never truly progress as a climber. I understood that facing uncertainty and failure are fundamental parts of my evolution.

    • Future of rock climbing

      Is there anything you would like to change about the current developments in climbing?

      I’ve never really thought about it, but I think if I could choose, I would ask for two things: more respect for the environment and the places we visit as climbers, and a healthier relationship with performance.

      Where do you see the sport going in the next years, what will change and what is your role going to be in it?

      I think we can expect a progressive separation between indoor and outdoor climbing, which are increasingly becoming two worlds that are drifting apart from each other.